DIY Car Maintenance

Got it all back together. That first startup was a bit nerve wracking, but it runs great! Much smoother and quieter, restored power, increased oil pressure, no blow-by out of the valve cover vents, and the new rings still haven't broken in yet.

I'm going to run this oil for 200 miles then change it. While driving I try to give it moderate acceleration and avoid excessive idling or highway drives where the rpm will be the same for extended periods of time.

As I started the re-assembly process, doubts started to creep in. "Is my torque wrench accurate?" "Man I hope I did this right" etc, but it seems everything is great.
 
I'm going to run this oil for 200 miles then change it. While driving I try to give it moderate acceleration and avoid excessive idling or highway drives where the rpm will be the same for extended periods of time.
Do you care to elaborate on why excessive idling is to be avoided?

With my car I lack easy access to power and usually I don't drive more than a couple times a week. So keeping the battery charged is something that I focus on. As a result there is a lot of idling going on, is this a bad thing? Thanks for the inspiring documentary posts! (y) (I wish I had a workspace.)
 
Do you care to elaborate on why excessive idling is to be avoided?

With my car I lack easy access to power and usually I don't drive more than a couple times a week. So keeping the battery charged is something that I focus on. As a result there is a lot of idling going on, is this a bad thing? Thanks for the inspiring documentary posts! (y) (I wish I had a workspace.)

Can you use a battery tender? A basic one is very cheap and does the job for a common car.

In regards to idling there are actually multiple reasons why it's bad but the main reason in your case would be because you're running it with cold oil for so long, as opposed to starting it up and driving it allowing the oil to heat up as fast as possible. There is also buildup issues with unburned fuel, wear and tear like fans working harder....things like that. Lots of other stuff I'm sure I'm missing as well....
 
Can you use a battery tender? A basic one is very cheap and does the job for a common car.

In regards to idling there are actually multiple reasons why it's bad but the main reason in your case would be because you're running it with cold oil for so long, as opposed to starting it up and driving it allowing the oil to heat up as fast as possible. There is also buildup issues with unburned fuel, wear and tear like fans working harder....things like that. Lots of other stuff I'm sure I'm missing as well....
I have heard long idling is bad in general, but I took the original post to refer to long idling during the break in period.

As I understand it you want to vary the engine RPM and avoid putting it under full power during the break in period. You are trying to let the new parts wear in against each other, and you want a uniform wear pattern. Long idling, or long periods of driving at the same speed could create irregular patterns of wear instead of the uniform wear you want.
 
I have heard long idling is bad in general, but I took the original post to refer to long idling during the break in period.

As I understand it you want to vary the engine RPM and avoid putting it under full power during the break in period. You are trying to let the new parts wear in against each other, and you want a uniform wear pattern. Long idling, or long periods of driving at the same speed could create irregular patterns of wear instead of the uniform wear you want.

Yea @mountainaire current situation is different from @DeWoken who was just referring to everyday use I believe from his comments.
 
Do you care to elaborate on why excessive idling is to be avoided?

With my car I lack easy access to power and usually I don't drive more than a couple times a week. So keeping the battery charged is something that I focus on. As a result there is a lot of idling going on, is this a bad thing? Thanks for the inspiring documentary posts! (y) (I wish I had a workspace.)
I was keeping idling down because I honed the cylinders and put new rings on the pistons. I've read that too much idling will prevent your new rings from seating properly against the cylinder walls and could potentially glaze the cylinder walls which is bad.

It's strictly a new engine parts break in thing. For an already broken-in engine idling shouldn't hurt it.
 
Just think about how an engine is an energy generator and how is operates. It's constantly having mini explosions while it's running. So figure idling like yourself jogging in place. You are constantly generating energy through your body to you legs yet your not really using that energy for useful work.

Now imagine mechanical parts jogging in place (idle) not really using its energy its producing to do anything useful. It just puts unnecessary wear on your engine parts for which there are a ton.

That is how I would explain it if I was a teacher. Maybe with more examples but I think the point is clear.
 
This is probably small fries to most of y'all but as someone not very mechanically handy (aka total noob other than theoretical understanding of the basics), I managed to fix a malfunctioning A/C in my car! After sitting a few months it turned out the relay had gone bad and it needed to be recharged with refrigerant. ChatGPT was the secret sauce. Made the troubleshooting very dummyproof granted that I asked the correct clarifying questions. Probably saved me hundreds of dollars and educated me greatly on the functioning of a car's A/C system.
 
This is probably small fries to most of y'all but as someone not very mechanically handy (aka total noob other than theoretical understanding of the basics), I managed to fix a malfunctioning A/C in my car! After sitting a few months it turned out the relay had gone bad and it needed to be recharged with refrigerant. ChatGPT was the secret sauce. Made the troubleshooting very dummyproof granted that I asked the correct clarifying questions. Probably saved me hundreds of dollars and educated me greatly on the functioning of a car's A/C system.
Nice. I permanently "fixed" my a/c by ripping out all of the a/c components, lines, everything, and putting a dummy pulley where the compressor used to be. Now my a/c is wind powered.
 
This is probably small fries to most of y'all but as someone not very mechanically handy (aka total noob other than theoretical understanding of the basics), I managed to fix a malfunctioning A/C in my car! After sitting a few months it turned out the relay had gone bad and it needed to be recharged with refrigerant. ChatGPT was the secret sauce. Made the troubleshooting very dummyproof granted that I asked the correct clarifying questions. Probably saved me hundreds of dollars and educated me greatly on the functioning of a car's A/C system.
Congratulations. This is a nice accomplishment. You are the path now, pilgrim!

On a side note, I have thought it was amazing how in recent years there have been Youtube videos explaining how to do almost everything. Replace a stuck lock mechanism in the tailgate of a 2001-2006 Yukon XL? Here's a step by step video!

But now, it appears AI has taken this role. Is it actually better than a video by an expert showing how to do the thing?

We'll see!
 
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Congratulations. This is a nice accomplishment. You are the path now, pilgrim!

On a side note, I have thought is was amazing how in recent years there have been Youtube videos explaining how to do almost everything. Replace a stuck lock mechanism in the tailgate of a 2001-2006 Yukon XL? Here's a step by step video!

But now, it appears AI has taken this role. Is it actually better than a video by an expert showing how to do the thing?

We'll see!

To me the best strategy seems to be going straight to ChatGPT to begin with and then supplementing with YouTube videos as needed. For example GPT wasn't very good at explaining the exact locations of certain parts, although it could do a good Google search and link me to diagrams. Videos came in handy to get a good visual and to get anecdotal bits of wisdom.

The interactive instructions are what makes GPT very powerful as many YouTube videos or text step-by-steps have me as a novice needing extra context for things that are obvious to a more competent individual. Like I found a clip for my vehicle purportedly explaining how to test the compressor clutch but the difference between it engaging & not was super unclear from the video. I think theoretically a clear and well-produced video would be better than anything but those aren't all that common. GPT anything unclear I could get explained, I could introduce my own thoughts and then if anything sounded a bit sketchy or inaccurate I would google to check.
 
Yeah ChatGPT can be helpful with basic pointers, but don't rely on it for specific critical information. I've noticed it will sometimes "fill in the blanks" and just make things up out of thin air, or look up info on other vehicles and pass it off as relevant to the one you're working on. Things like fastener sizes, torque values, cross referencing part numbers, etc... best to stick with known reliable sources for that info like factory service manuals.
 
Yeah ChatGPT can be helpful with basic pointers, but don't rely on it for specific critical information. I've noticed it will sometimes "fill in the blanks" and just make things up out of thin air, or look up info on other vehicles and pass it off as relevant to the one you're working on. Things like fastener sizes, torque values, cross referencing part numbers, etc... best to stick with known reliable sources for that info like factory service manuals.
I've heard of ChatGDP making up things like precedents for legal briefs, but it's shocking to think of it making up imaginary information for things like the torques and bolt pattern for torqueing down a cylinder head!

That's just wrong!
 
I've heard of ChatGDP making up things like precedents for legal briefs, but it's shocking to think of it making up imaginary information for things like the torques and bolt pattern for torqueing down a cylinder head!

That's just wrong!
Yeah man, it's crazy. I'll ask it something and it'll give me an answer that I know is way off, so I'll tell it "that's not right", and it'll say something like "My bad dude, thanks for calling me out in that" and it'll give me another random made up number.
 
Yeah man, it's crazy. I'll ask it something and it'll give me an answer that I know is way off, so I'll tell it "that's not right", and it'll say something like "My bad dude, thanks for calling me out in that" and it'll give me another random made up number.
Can confirm this, me and my worker were discussing this about main bearing caps on J series Honda motors since we are doing alot of Crankshaft repairs lately due to a recall. Long story short Honda J series use 4 total bolts to hold main bearing caps in place. You torque the top ones then the side ones then angle torque the top ones. All numbers were wrong torque wise Nm and Ft-Lbs. Plus it did not mention angle torque at all.

If you are serious about working on your own vehicle if its routine maintenance or heavy maintenance. You should look into purchasing your vehicles service manual. Depending of what you have and your first language, you can find them on ebay usually for a reasonable price. $50-$100 usd is the range I see for most Hondas.
 
Do you care to elaborate on why excessive idling is to be avoided?
Initial Startup Procedure:
It is imperative that the engine’s initial startup happen quickly to ensure proper break-in.
· NOTE: For proper camshaft and tappet break-in, specific recommendations from the camshaft
manufacturer will supersede the following Startup Procedure.
· If the engine is properly assembled and installed (in vehicle, test stand or dyno) the engine should
start after only a few revolutions. If the engine does not start, double check ignition and fuel settings.
· Once started, verify proper oil pressure and continuously monitor during break-in cycle.
· As soon as the engine starts, increase and hold the rpm between approximately 25-35% of maximum
engine rpm while verifying the following:
§ EXAMPLE: maximum engine rpm of 8000rpm would hold between 2000-2800rpm
o Ensure all cylinders are firing.
o Verify and adjust for proper timing and fuel as soon as possible.
§ Excessive fuel can wash the oil from cylinders and prohibit break-in, leading to
cylinder glazing.
· Once all timing, fueling and other parameters are verified correct, run the engine for approximately
15-30 minutes.
o Vary the RPM between 25-35% of the maximum engine rpm for the duration of the break-in.
§ Allowing the engine to idle should be avoided if at all possible.
o Listen for any unusual noises, shut down if necessary.
o Allow the engine to reach full operating temperature, but shut down to investigate if
exceeding normal operating temps.
o In nearly all instances, it is best to shut down immediately if an issue is found and make
adjustments as necessary.
· Initial startup procedure can be repeated as needed but caution should be taken as excessively
running a new engine unloaded can lead to insufficient ring seating and poor performance. It is best
to place the engine under a mild load as soon as possible after the initial startup procedure is
complete.

o A note concerning engine run stands: They should only be used to ensure no leaks, adjust
timing and fuel or break-in flat tappet camshafts. An unloaded run stand WILL NOT properly
seat the rings.

o Change oil and filter from break-in to recommended conventional oil.


Engine Break-in:
Recommended Procedures

Version 00
MAHLE Motorsport, Fletcher, IM07 Page 3 of 3
Property of MAHLE Inc. Utilization only for the assigned purpose. Disclosure to third parties only with written permission.
Running Procedure:
Once all checks are performed and the engine has no issues detected, the engine should be ran under a load
to properly seat the rings. Loading the engine increases the cylinder pressure and forces the rings into the
bore to help the seating process.

· In Vehicle:
o NOTE: Ensure brakes, steering and suspension all function properly before starting in-vehicle
running procedure.
o Using part throttle, apply varying loads and rpm. Avoid using heavy throttle / acceleration and
high rpm.
§ Street Vehicle:
· This should be accomplished over a short 20-30 min drive.
§ Race Vehicle:
· This should be accomplished over the first practice session.
o Next, start at 25% of the max rpm with light throttle and accelerate at wide open throttle to
75% of max rpm. Then engine brake with the throttle closed, back to 25% max rpm. Repeat
this 5-6 times.

§ Example: 8000rpm max would start at 2000rpm and accelerate to 6000rpm then
engine brake back to 2000rpm.
· On Dyno:
o Follow dyno recommended break-in procedure if available.
o Part throttle load to 75% max rpm and observe crankcase pressure.
o Keep applying higher loads and increase RPM in approximately 1000 rpm increments with
subsequent pulls until max rpm and load is reached.
o Once crankcase pressure has stabilized and is repeatable, the rings are seated.
· Double check to ensure no issues have arisen and change oil and filter again.
· Run as engine build was intended.
 
Not a big fix, but Ive got a 2002 jeep liberty with an outside door handle that doesn't work.

I remember this was a problem last year, and I replaced the broken door rod clip. I'm guessing since it was generic and not OEM (could not find OEM anywhere), I am instead finding all the door rod clip STL files that I can muster online and 3d printing them out of some very durable plastic instead. Hopefully it works for longer term this time.
 
Got another taste of what it's like doing even simple maintenance tasks on new vehicles. Helped a family member out with a dead battery (barely a few years old), tried the old tricks like jumpstarting it, charging off another vehicle, taking it for an extended drive to recharge etc. Didn't work, next morning it was stone dead...

So go to replace it, the car is dead and to open it without battery power, you have to solve this Rubik's cube style puzzle to gain access to the hidden lock cylinder...

Get the door open, pop the hood, battery is tucked underneath the cowl, against the firewall, have to spend an hour removing the airbox, plastic covers, and trim pieces just to gain access. The new battery was 260 dollars even after the core exchange, and the salesman informed me that I'll have to "register" the new battery with the cars system or it will not charge it properly. and that they'll gladly do it for an extra fee of $99. I though he was BS'ing me so I declined. I later looked it up and it's actually a thing. You literally have to use an OBII mechanics scan tool and reset a "battery life" monitor for it to charge properly. Thankfully I have a scan tool and was able to do it myself, but it boggles the mind why such a step would even be necessary in the first place.

The whole experience left me bewildered, it's like the engineers are trying to make their cars as user-unfriendly as possible so you'll be completely and totally dependent on dealership service departments. It's never taken me more than ten minutes to replace a battery before. This one took the better part of a day.







The whole thing made me want to buy an old squarebody pickup and rebuild everything in it. There's like 4 wires in the whole truck and two of em power the headlights...

View attachment 3850

Great clips. That's how I feel about so many things now when I have to deal with unhelpful technology.
 
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Have done basic maintenance on my cars and motorcycles in the past, from oil changes to valve adjustments and brake jobs, but for some reason I had never touched a carburetor. Then my lawn mover started having problems and I finally got my feet wet on some very simple tech.

Bowl was leaking slowly and the main jet was so gummed up by 7 years of ethanol that I just decided to buy a new one off amazon for $25, which works fine, although it didn't come with the correct gaskets. Hoping I can get a gasket kit from somewhere.

Need to rig up fuel tank I can use when I want to tune it with the engine running. It's got an auto-choke system that is not adjusted correctly, but you can only really access it with the fuel tank removed.

Mower runs and works, but the idle speed is way high, so just waiting on parts to try and get the tune set up.
 
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