DIY Car Maintenance

[mountainaire]

Simplified my accesory drive belt by doing the A/C delete the right way. Got rid of that junky dorman dummy pulley I was running, and simply moved the alternator up from the bottom of the engine and mounted it with a special bracket in its place. Now there's one less pulley, and I use a much shorter belt, the alternator won't get soaked with mud and grit out on trails, and it's in a much easier to access location if it needs replacement.



Also, I'd like to shill for Edelmann power steering pumps. After my factory original p/s pump died after 30 years, I tried two different cheap parts store remains, and they both failed within a month. I bought a new Edelmann pump off rockauto and it's held up excellent for about a year now, runs very quiet and doesn't leak. If anyone needs a new pump and OEM isn't available, definitely go with Edelmann.

 

[mountainaire]

Getting this thing out was a fight. Hours laying on the garage floor trying to contort myself reaching tight spots with a wrench. You really need specialized wrenches for this job, half moon wrenches, which I didn't have, but I found a way to get it done anyway.

It is in dire need of attention. As you can see it's leaking from pretty much every seal and orifice. When I pulled the drain plug before pulling it barely any fluid came out. Haven't cracked it open yet, but when I spin the front driveshaft output, I can hear the chain dragging on the bottom of the case. It wouldn't have survived much longer being driven like this.

 

[mountainaire]

Well she's happy again. Bearings were still in serviceable condition, they rolled smooth, no side to side play, so I elected to reuse instead of risking damage to the aluminum case pulling and hammering new bearings.

Thorough cleaning, new seals, o-rings, oil pump, and chain. I took great care in joining the case sections with rtv, I don't think this is going to leak. Now I wait 24 hours for the sealant to cure before adding fluid.



This amount of chain stretch was enough to cause the chain to skip teeth while in 4lo.

 

[ed plrbs unm]

It be like that sometimes:

 

[Read_Lives_of_Saints]

A family member has a 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LS Crew Cab 2WD with a 5.3L Vortec V-8 that was made in Canada and has 176K original miles. It had the engine light on for years, but he only took it to those hole-in-the-wall places that could never fix the problems.

After the driver side catalytic converter finally melted down, began rattling, and then pieces of it slid down into the muffler, he asked me to straighten it out, so both of those items were just replaced by a shop for $740, which found these codes:

DTG PO300 random or multiple cylinder engine misfires
DTC PO332 knock sensor 2 circuit low input on bank 2
DTC PO442 a small leak in the Evaporative Emission Control (EVAP) system
DTC PO446 evaporative emission control system (EVAP) vent control circuit malfunction, vent control circuit malfunction
DTC PO758 indicates an electrical issue with shift solenoid B, often preventing the transmission from shifting from second to third gear
DTC PO894 transmission component slipping

 

[Read_Lives_of_Saints]

I'm concerned most about the first two codes because they certainly need attention on their own and probably caused the accelerated death of the cat on the driver side, which I expect to find might be the bank that's causing the knock codes.

What scanners do y'all like that don't break the bank (less than ~$100 USD)? There are also 2014 & 2019 Honda CRV's in the family that it would be nice if the scanner worked well with, but the Chevy is the priority as it needs the most attention.

Despite the warning light being on and the shifting being a little janky, it still has power and does fine on mileage, so I'm looking to gradually fix what I can by myself. I can certainly change the basic stuff, like spark plugs, ignition packs, and sensors, but pulling off the head might be over mine.

What do y'all think? I might just replace the plugs and wires no matter what they look like as the owner says he does not think they have been changed any time he can recall.

 

[mountainaire]

A family member has a 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LS Crew Cab 2WD with a 5.3L Vortec V-8 that was made in Canada and has 176K original miles. It had the engine light on for years, but he only took it to those hole-in-the-wall places that could never fix the problems.

After the driver side catalytic converter finally melted down, began rattling, and then pieces of it slid down into the muffler, he asked me to straighten it out, so both of those items were just replaced by a shop for $740, which found these codes:

DTG PO300 random or multiple cylinder engine misfires
DTC PO332 knock sensor 2 circuit low input on bank 2
DTC PO442 a small leak in the Evaporative Emission Control (EVAP) system
DTC PO446 evaporative emission control system (EVAP) vent control circuit malfunction, vent control circuit malfunction
DTC PO758 indicates an electrical issue with shift solenoid B, often preventing the transmission from shifting from second to third gear
DTC PO894 transmission component slipping

Iron block 5.3 LS pre cylinder deactivation, those were possibly the best and most reliable engines GM ever built.

Not good to run them if the engine control systems are malfunctioning, might have been dumping excess fuel for a long time once it saw the knock sensor went out. Sometimes the ECU will dump excess fuel to try and prevent a lean condition to avoid preignition once the knock sensor goes out. The improper air/fuel mixture over time might have melted down the catalytic converter. If the root cause isn't addressed, the replacement cat will suffer the same fate soon after.

The engines themselves are very stout. If you go through it and make sure all of the systems are operating properly, ALL sensors related to air/fuel mixture (mass airflow sensor, knock sensor, O2 sensors, EGR system if it's equipped with one), then make sure you have proper fuel pressure at the rail in all conditions (key on engine off, engine idling, and while under throttle) there will be a Schrader valve you can hook a fuel pressure gauge up to ($30 at harbor freight, or you can borrow them from parts stores), then fuel injectors, ignition system (coil packs, spark plugs, wires).

I believe the knock sensors are located on top of the block under the intake plenum, in the valley between both cylinder heads, water and debris often collect in that area causing the sensors to go out.

I assume it's got the 4L60e, you can buy shift solenoid sets and they're usually not too bad to install once you get the pan off.

 

[Read_Lives_of_Saints]

Iron block 5.3 LS pre cylinder deactivation, those were possibly the best and most reliable engines GM ever built.

Not good to run them if the engine control systems are malfunctioning, might have been dumping excess fuel for a long time once it saw the knock sensor went out. Sometimes the ECU will dump excess fuel to try and prevent a lean condition to avoid preignition once the knock sensor goes out. The improper air/fuel mixture over time might have melted down the catalytic converter. If the root cause isn't addressed, the replacement cat will suffer the same fate soon after.

The engines themselves are very stout. If you go through it and make sure all of the systems are operating properly, ALL sensors related to air/fuel mixture (mass airflow sensor, knock sensor, O2 sensors, EGR system if it's equipped with one), then make sure you have proper fuel pressure at the rail in all conditions (key on engine off, engine idling, and while under throttle) there will be a Schrader valve you can hook a fuel pressure gauge up to ($30 at harbor freight, or you can borrow them from parts stores), then fuel injectors, ignition system (coil packs, spark plugs, wires).

I believe the knock sensors are located on top of the block under the intake plenum, in the valley between both cylinder heads, water and debris often collect in that area causing the sensors to go out.

Thank you for the run down. It sounds like an excellent plan of action.

I assume it's got the 4L60e, you can buy shift solenoid sets and they're usually not too bad to install once you get the pan off.

Yep, that's the one according to the M30 code in the glove box.

What scanner do you use? Does it matter much? I see a bunch of them from $50-100 USD.

 

[mountainaire]

Thank you for the run down. It sounds like an excellent plan of action.


Yep, that's the one according to the M30 code in the glove box.

What scanner do you use? Does it matter much? I see a bunch of them from $50-100 USD.

The stuff I work on is mostly ancient OBD I systems, but it depends on what you need from a scanner. If you just simply want to be able to read codes, a $20 hyper tough scanner from walmart will be fine, if you want more sophisticated features like live readings for more specific troubleshooting then you'll have to shell out more $$$. @Gazeebo would probably know more about that.

Lots of "mechanics" now just plug in a scanner and turn people away if the job requires any actual thinking to address. Sometimes the way to solve a problem is old school mechanic troubleshooting and common sense:

 

[Thomas More]

The stuff I work on is mostly ancient OBD I systems, but it depends on what you need from a scanner. If you just simply want to be able to read codes, a $20 hyper tough scanner from walmart will be fine, if you want more sophisticated features like live readings for more specific troubleshooting then you'll have to shell out more $$$. @Gazeebo would probably know more about that.

Lots of "mechanics" now just plug in a scanner and turn people away if the job requires any actual thinking to address. Sometimes the way to solve a problem is old school mechanic troubleshooting and common sense:

This was like watching an episode of House, only better!

 

[Gazeebo]

A family member has a 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LS Crew Cab 2WD with a 5.3L Vortec V-8 that was made in Canada and has 176K original miles. It had the engine light on for years, but he only took it to those hole-in-the-wall places that could never fix the problems.

After the driver side catalytic converter finally melted down, began rattling, and then pieces of it slid down into the muffler, he asked me to straighten it out, so both of those items were just replaced by a shop for $740, which found these codes:

DTG PO300 random or multiple cylinder engine misfires
DTC PO332 knock sensor 2 circuit low input on bank 2
DTC PO442 a small leak in the Evaporative Emission Control (EVAP) system
DTC PO446 evaporative emission control system (EVAP) vent control circuit malfunction, vent control circuit malfunction
DTC PO758 indicates an electrical issue with shift solenoid B, often preventing the transmission from shifting from second to third gear
DTC PO894 transmission component slipping

When I look at your codes and read your more recent post so I will address those two if I may. P0300 code may your ignition coils have a issue. Your spark plugs can also cause misfire issue if they are replaced at regular intervals (100k miles is standard). If/when you get a code reader it may be able to pin point which cylinder is misfiring enough to code and isolate that cylinder. All engines have a misfire tolerance meaning thy are allowed to misfire a certain amount of times each duty cycle.

Your bank two knock sensor P0332 is probably just toast and needs replacing.

The evap may be as easy as replacing the vent control valve.

I would replace shift solenoid b as well. I've worked on Hondas and Acuras most of my adult life and the 5 and or 6 speed transmissions work off shift solenoids to change gears and ive replaced a ton of them. Its probably why you also have a slippage code.

Now to answer your question about scanners, I would go with an Autel MS309. Its cheap about $25 and will allow you to monitor data lists, clear DTCs, etc. If you wanna spend a bit more you can try the Autel AL319 which has more visible data with a nicer screen but that's just a luxury. I personally have two MS309 one for my SUV and the wife's van.

GM is not my speciality but I think what I said applies for most makes. If you have issues on Honda let me know.

Good luck and look forward to hearing success on your repairs.

 

[FrancisK]

A family member has a 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LS Crew Cab 2WD with a 5.3L Vortec V-8 that was made in Canada and has 176K original miles. It had the engine light on for years, but he only took it to those hole-in-the-wall places that could never fix the problems.

After the driver side catalytic converter finally melted down, began rattling, and then pieces of it slid down into the muffler, he asked me to straighten it out, so both of those items were just replaced by a shop for $740, which found these codes:

DTG PO300 random or multiple cylinder engine misfires
DTC PO332 knock sensor 2 circuit low input on bank 2
DTC PO442 a small leak in the Evaporative Emission Control (EVAP) system
DTC PO446 evaporative emission control system (EVAP) vent control circuit malfunction, vent control circuit malfunction
DTC PO758 indicates an electrical issue with shift solenoid B, often preventing the transmission from shifting from second to third gear
DTC PO894 transmission component slipping

I'm sorry brother I don't have specific help to offer but I'll tell you my story about a 2003 Sierra with the rare side steps. I bought it knowing it was sought after thinking to fix it up and sell it, it was lit up like a Christmas tree but every mechanic on the planet had experience with that 5.3L plus there was more than you can count at every local junkyard it should be cheap to fix....right?

That thing KILLED me, I chased code after code after code for months. I spent night after night in my warehouse doing what I could and never got anywhere, I went to half a dozen different mechanics who gave unlimited reasons for all the codes with all
the confidence in the world they could fix them and still couldn't get it right. By the end I was just replacing part after part after part and once I got one thing sorted a new thing would just pop up, anything electrical and pretty much anything rubber on that truck I swear was designed to fail and the thing would throw codes and run poorly if you looked at it the wrong way. Which is crazy because I know they are actually reliable trucks, I swear they are, I think it was just Michigan that ate it alive and im sure you could say the same for Canada. Either that or everyone who still drives one just drives the hell out of it and doesn't care about the issues, I think that one is what it is because it still ran and went down the road it just was never right. It felt like every single thing failed on the truck and needed to be replaced other than the engine itself.

I punted it on the next guy who was all too happy I'm sure thinking the same thing I was thinking when I bought it, rare truck easy fix "sucker".

My advice.....trucks hold their value so it's still worth something. Sell it and move on if it's at all feasibly possible.

 

[Read_Lives_of_Saints]

When I look at your codes and read your more recent post so I will address those two if I may. P0300 code may your ignition coils have a issue. Your spark plugs can also cause misfire issue if they are replaced at regular intervals (100k miles is standard). If/when you get a code reader it may be able to pin point which cylinder is misfiring enough to code and isolate that cylinder. All engines have a misfire tolerance meaning thy are allowed to misfire a certain amount of times each duty cycle.

Your bank two knock sensor P0332 is probably just toast and needs replacing.

The evap may be as easy as replacing the vent control valve.

I would replace shift solenoid b as well. I've worked on Hondas and Acuras most of my adult life and the 5 and or 6 speed transmissions work off shift solenoids to change gears and ive replaced a ton of them. Its probably why you also have a slippage code.

Now to answer your question about scanners, I would go with an Autel MS309. Its cheap about $25 and will allow you to monitor data lists, clear DTCs, etc. If you wanna spend a bit more you can try the Autel AL319 which has more visible data with a nicer screen but that's just a luxury. I personally have two MS309 one for my SUV and the wife's van.

GM is not my speciality but I think what I said applies for most makes. If you have issues on Honda let me know.

Good luck and look forward to hearing success on your repairs.

Many thanks for the detailed response. I had no idea what kind of price point I needed to aim for to get a decent code reader. Glad to know that they aren't very expensive.

 

[Read_Lives_of_Saints]

I'm sorry brother I don't have specific help to offer but I'll tell you my story about a 2003 Sierra with the rare side steps. I bought it knowing it was sought after thinking to fix it up and sell it, it was lit up like a Christmas tree but every mechanic on the planet had experience with that 5.3L plus there was more than you can count at every local junkyard it should be cheap to fix....right?

That thing KILLED me, I chased code after code after code for months. I spent night after night in my warehouse doing what I could and never got anywhere, I went to half a dozen different mechanics who gave unlimited reasons for all the codes with all
the confidence in the world they could fix them and still couldn't get it right. By the end I was just replacing part after part after part and once I got one thing sorted a new thing would just pop up, anything electrical and pretty much anything rubber on that truck I swear was designed to fail and the thing would throw codes and run poorly if you looked at it the wrong way. Which is crazy because I know they are actually reliable trucks, I swear they are, I think it was just Michigan that ate it alive and im sure you could say the same for Canada. Either that or everyone who still drives one just drives the hell out of it and doesn't care about the issues, I think that one is what it is because it still ran and went down the road it just was never right. It felt like every single thing failed on the truck and needed to be replaced other than the engine itself.

I punted it on the next guy who was all too happy I'm sure thinking the same thing I was thinking when I bought it, rare truck easy fix "sucker".

My advice.....trucks hold their value so it's still worth something. Sell it and move on if it's at all feasibly possible.

Did you try holy water?

 

[FrancisK]

Did you try holy water?

View attachment 23802

Haha you joke but there was one night I was convinced cleaning the throttle body would solve an issue so after cracking the air intake hose like it was made of sugar glass and removing some connector that had all the wires fall out the back of it by barely touching it only to find throttle body clean as a whistle I did look up and say "God please help me with this truck".....

 

[Read_Lives_of_Saints]

The stuff I work on is mostly ancient OBD I systems, but it depends on what you need from a scanner. If you just simply want to be able to read codes, a $20 hyper tough scanner from walmart will be fine, if you want more sophisticated features like live readings for more specific troubleshooting then you'll have to shell out more $$$. @Gazeebo would probably know more about that.

Lots of "mechanics" now just plug in a scanner and turn people away if the job requires any actual thinking to address. Sometimes the way to solve a problem is old school mechanic troubleshooting and common sense:

Great trouble-shooting video. Had to watch the whole thing. Love watching these calm pros do their thing.

 

[Read_Lives_of_Saints]

After getting @Gazeebo's recommendation, I did some additional research on OBD2 scan tools in order to find one for under $100 USD that would help me the most. I'll break them into three price categories: basic (under $30), mid-range ($31 - $69), and high-end ($70 - $120). There are many tools above this price range that I did not research or consider.

Because of the diversity of manufacturer specific coding for various systems on their vehicle besides the engine, there is no one tool that will have the same feature set for every vehicle in its ability to read, clear and program codes.

I watched a few helpful videos that I've listed and I'm also pasting in some scan tool jargon at the bottom.

BASIC scan tools have simple abilities to read and erase codes, but that might be all you need in order to diagnose and repair. Many of these can not read oxygen sensor or EVAP codes, nor do they have live data.

Motopower MP69033 $20
Large font is easy to read as well as the B/W screen being visible in sunlight, but it did not find tranny fault in Honda Civic.

Autel MaxiScan MS309 $25
Gazeebo has two of these and they serve him well. It has a B/W display that is easy to read in the sunlight and it has a 12 month warranty.
User manual

Ancel 310 $28
B/W display is easy to read in the sunlight, but there is lots of lag for button depress to next display. It can graph data.

Bluetooth dongle scanners under $30
There are some cheap bluetooth dongle scanners available that people online say work well and give lots of info, but I did not research any particular ones in this price range because I'm just too gun shy of cheap Chinese stuff to have bothered.

MID-RANGE scan tools have larger displays, often in color (which is more difficult to see in the sunlight), and more buttons for convenience, as well as live data and freeze frame. It's at this price point that you get more sensor reading ability, especially for the O2 (oxygen) sensor, EVAP, etc. It's also at this price point where the tool is expected to be able to turn off the check engine light (MIL).

Autel AutoLink AL329 $36
First sold in 2012 and updated from AL319 to AL329, which can automatically retrieve VINs.
2.4" TFT color display (220 x 176 dpi), speaker, LED indicator, 12 month warranty

Foxwell 201 $40
Has O2 sensor, the software can be updated and the display is difficult to see in sunlight.

CGSULIT SC204 $40
In addition to the basics, it has EVAP, O2 and was recommended by Scotty.

Ancel AD410 $45
2.4 TFT color display (that is difficult to see in sunlight), live data stream, O2 sensor, processes codes quickly, spells out all the info, can graph data, but the software can not be updated. Also available in packages with additional features.

HIGH-END One of the interesting features you can get in the high-end is integrated testing electrodes for checking batteries and other electrical components.

Autel AutoLink AL439 $70
Electrical testing tool, TFT color display (220 x 176 dpi), has O2 monitor test, DTC help, print data via Windows PC, and does NOT have auto-VIN retrieval.

Foxwell NT301 $70
Provides useful information about trouble codes, can read the O2 sensor, software can be updated, 2.8" TFT display is difficult to see in sunlight, and has an additional mini-USB connector.

BlueDriver $80 (list prices is $120)
Bluetooth dongle, no wires, app & updates are free. Provides the most information of all the scan tools I looked at. Some of the most useful information that it has, which others do not, are for recalls and technical service bulletins, in addition to a database of repairs and Amazon links. You do have to create a minimal account and verify your e-mail address in order to use the app. The benefit for this is that your vehicle information is saved online in addition to it being saved locally on the app, as well as being printable and shareable on your other devices.

VIDEOS

PROJECT FARM - Best OBD 2 Code Scanner? Are All The Same? Let's Find Out!, May 2024.
This was my favorite video for a few reasons, including the fact that he made two graphics that compared all the features of the scan tools that he tested.








CHRIS FIX - The Best OBD2 Check Engine Light Scan Tool for the Money (Reads ABS, Airbag, Tranny Codes), Feb. 2015.
This is a good overview of the BlueDriver OBD2 scan tool.



SCOTTY - If You Don’t Have This Cheap Tool, You’re Stupid, Feb. 2023
Scotty reviews a few units at different prices points as only he can do.



SCAN TOOL JARGON from wikipedia

OBD On-board diagnostics

DTC Diagnose trouble codes

PID parameter IDs are live data streams
OBD-II PIDs (On-board diagnostics Parameter IDs) are codes used to request data from a vehicle, used as a diagnostic tool.

MIL means malfunction indicator light or check engine light. Not all tools can turn this off.

I/M Readiness, a key term in OBD-II scanner terminology, refers to the status of a vehicle's onboard diagnostic system regarding its preparedness for an emissions inspection, aka smog test.

Unidirectional means that the scan tool only receives information from the car's computers, with the exception of being able to clear codes. All the devices listed here are unidirectional.

Bidirectional means the scan tool can interact with the car's computers and issue commands, such as causing the EGR valve to activate, the fuel pump to initiate, or the ABS to bleed. These can also program the car's computers. Only the much more expensive devices are bidirectional.

SAE standard J1979 defines many OBD-II PIDs. All on-road vehicles and trucks sold in North America are required to support a subset of these codes, primarily for state mandated emissions inspections. Manufacturers also define additional PIDs specific to their vehicles. Though not mandated, many motorcycles also support OBD-II PIDs.

Each DTC fault code is made up of five characters: a single letter followed by four numbers. The letter denotes which of the four main systems the fault has been detected in:

P: Powertrain
B: Body
C: Chassis
N: Network
The second character is a number that specifies whether it's a generic OBD-II code or a manufacturer code. (Manufacturers reserve the right to generate their own codes if there isn't a generic code for a specific problem they'd like drivers and techs to be able to diagnose.)

0: Standardized (SAE) fault codes
1: Manufacturer-specific codes
The third character is either a letter or number that specifies which of the vehicle systems is throwing a fault:

0: Fuel and air metering and auxiliary emissions controls
1: Fuel and air metering
2: Fuel and air metering (specific injector circuit)
3: Ignition systems or misfires
4: Auxiliary emission controls
5: Vehicle speed control and idle control systems
7, 8, 9: Transmission and gearbox faults
A, B, C: Hybrid propulsion systems
The fourth and fifth numbers denote the specific fault being detected. It can be any number between zero and 99.

Almost all modern OBD-II scanners will summarize the error code alongside the five-character alphanumeric code. Some of the more advanced models even have a code lookup function that will further explain the details of the fault and what might be causing it.

In the case of the Bluetooth OBD-II scanners, the apps might include video explainers (pulled from YouTube) that will show you how to further diagnose the code and possibly even repair the faulty components responsible for the problem.

#scanner

 

[Gazeebo]

@Read_Lives_of_Saints what did you end up purchasing? I am also curious have you dove in anymore on your issues?

 

[Gazeebo]

Haha you joke but there was one night I was convinced cleaning the throttle body would solve an issue so after cracking the air intake hose like it was made of sugar glass and removing some connector that had all the wires fall out the back of it by barely touching it only to find throttle body clean as a whistle I did look up and say "God please help me with this truck".....

I tell you this, I've fixed many vehicles coding for running lean becausethe intake tube has a crack in it. Most folks that do diy check their engine air filter only but I would recommend inspecting your intake boot (tube from filter housing to throttle body) at the same time.

 

[Read_Lives_of_Saints]

@Read_Lives_of_Saints what did you end up purchasing? I am also curious have you dove in anymore on your issues?

I bought the BlueDriver bluetooth dongle for $80, which provides a lot of information and I'm just beginning to look at it. It scanned my truck's computer system thoroughly and found additional errors I hadn't mentioned, like the A/C.

The BlueDriver youtube channel happens to have a playlist on this truck- what a happy coincidence! There's a video on the knock sensor and mass airflow sensor as well as the intake gasket, so I'm studying those.

God willing, I'll be working on it this week and making some posts. I'll try to live up to the @mountainaire documentation standard, haha.